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The return of the listening bar

Small rooms, big speakers and one rule: you are here to listen.

Desmond PriceContributing editor7 min read
A turntable playing a record on the counter of a dim listening bar, with vintage speakers and listeners behind
Photograph by Oriel Studio

Listening bars started in Tokyo kissaten in the 1950s. There are now nine in London, and the newest has a waiting list.

The rule is simple: you are here to listen. Conversation is kept low, phones stay in pockets, and the records play from start to finish.

The music matters less than the attention.

One rule

The idea comes from Tokyo’s jazz kissa, small cafés where people came to hear records on a system few could afford at home. The rule was simple: you are here to listen. No loud talk, no phones on the table, and the person behind the counter chooses what plays.

The new bars keep that rule. Most seat fewer than thirty people. The speakers are often older than the staff, restored and tuned to the room, and the drinks list is short because the records are the menu.

Why now

The people we met in four London bars gave the same answer: it is one of the few places they hear a whole album from start to finish. At home the music is always background. Here it is the reason to be in the room.

There is also something social about listening in silence with strangers. Nobody talks, but everybody notices when a track lands.

How to go

Arrive early, because most do not take bookings. Ask what is on the turntable rather than requesting a song. Stay for a full side. And if you want to talk, the street outside is for that.

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